Friday 15th March – Kaouki Beach to Oualidia

Kaouki Beach to Oualidia - 134 miles

Terry was up during the night with a developing toothache, attempting to relieve it with Ibuprofen, and then earlyish again to try paracetomol. It was obviously a repeat of a previous problem and anti-biotics will be needed. But we got the remainder of the packing done, breakfast and a full service before paying the, this time, young lady receptionist who spoke perfect English. Seems that English is taught in all schools for 5 years as a “second language” but she had done an extra two years. French is taught as the main language but Arabic is apparently learned as part of growing up and not part of formal education, which seems a bit strange.

We decided to forego Essaouira but nevertheless called in to Carrefour for some bits and pieces – as usual two items on the list but we came out with a trolley full! A fuel refill then on our way, deciding to use the coastal road to Safi. However we had forgotten that this wasn't very good, okay for the first half but decidely Moroccan thereafter to Safi, past the industrial works. Despite it being Friday and their Holy Day, and so expected to be quiet, we were also plagued with a series of heavy trucks which were of course next to impossible to pass so also had to put up with dust and fumes.

Through Safi, refusing a diversion that TomTom offered us, and we paused for lunch outside one of the universities on the coastal hill leaving the town to the north. From there on it was a nice quiet run along the coast to Oualidia where the guardian parking was quite busy, although there's always room here and we squeezed into a quiet corner. We'll probably stay a few days but anti-biotics are becoming a priority as ibuprofen and paracetomol aren't having much effect on Terry's toothache.

Kaouki Beach (again!)

Up earlyish, ready to “bag” the pitch next to June & Derek. They didn't show any signs of moving so as the next one was vacated we pulled onto it for now. Later they moved off and we took their place. We've noticed that there is quite a high turnover of vans on this site, with a goodly number who have stayed a few days moving on first thing. Then the “ten o'clock shuffle” begins with folk looking for a better pitch. Around 2.30 pm more vans start to arrive until once again the site is full.

Tuesday was a bit dull until mid-afternoon with a cool on-shore breeze but it later dropped and the remainder of our stay was again hot and sunny. We continued our theme of not doing a lot, taking Jamie onto the beach several times for a good run and on Wednesday tried the “restaurant” in the village again – an okay meal but at less than a fiver a head who's complaining?

Our friends, who were staying in Morocco a few days more than us, had made plans to visit Fez, Meknes and Volubilis, so they left on Thursday morning. We've loved travelling with them but are unlikely to see them again this trip although we'll stay in touch. We decided to stay one more day at Kaouki Beach and then continue up the coast, maybe having a day visit to Essaouira on the way. We're starting to feel “morocco'd out”.

Monday 11 March – Aourir to Kaouki Beach

Aourir to Kaouki Beach - 116 miles (including backtrack to Agadir)

An early start into another bright sunny and rapidly warming up day. We have decided to move on, Derek and June leaving well before us but they don't have breakfast so we'll catch up later. Finish packing away, a quick service, pay the man and and on our way, avoiding a large British van with a trailer who arrived as we were leaving. Had a quick chat, surprised at such an early arrival but they had come off the main campsite in Agadir which, as we already knew, was diabolical.

Our first call was back to Agadir to see if the Speedy (aka Kwikfit in the UK) could recharge the air-conditioning but they had run out of gas so no joy there. However our visit wasn't entirely a loss as we made a short call into Marjane for extra supplies of water, soft drinks etc. Then headed north.

About 7km past Tagazhoute, our old but now defunct special place, we checked out the new campsite we had noticed on our way down a couple of weeks ago. It appears to be affiliated to the existing Atlantica Park, which is just up the road but a little away from the coast, and is well laid out with all facilities including a large restaurant. It's best feature though is that it is right on a superb beach. A place to bear in mind for another visit and yet another example of how fast Morocco is developing its tourist industry.

A pleasant run up the N1, which was quiet for a change, along the coastline. There are some fabulous beaches here which look good for surfing, and quite a few places where it is possible to pull off the road to access them. But there is also a plethora of “no motorhomes” signs – you would probably be okay during the day but almost certainly be moved on if attempting a night stop. Unfortunately the popularity of motorhoming is also it's worst enemy because as soon as one or two vans stop, many more join them leading to problems with litter, waste disposal etc. which the local authorities simply don't want.

Shortly after the busy little town of Tamri the road climbs steeply up into the hills and we paused close to the top for lunch and to admire the view, somewehat hazy today so photos were pointless. Further on we spotted a radar speed trap in the distance and although we weren't speeding reduced by a few mph and so weren't troubled. However a French motorhome coming up behind us wasn't so observant and was directed onto the side of the road. Well that's the traffic cops lunch paid for....!

A left turn onto the coastal road saw us caught behind an overloaded (as usual) little van pouring smoke, causing us to shut the windows and turn off the fresh air vents, with no way to pass on the good but single lane road. In no rush, we just hung back until he went his own way, and then enjoyed the final run along the coast again to Sid Kaouke, and Kaouki Beach Camping where we'd stayed before and were due to join up again with our friends.

Being later than our usual stopping time, the site was almost full but we managed to squeeze into a corner for now, knowing that come morning there would be folk moving on. A strong wind had got up as we joined the coast which had the benefit of taking the edge off the temperature so our afternoon cuppa and chat was enjoyed inside. We learned that the French couple on the pitch next to June and Derek were leaving in the morning, so we'll try to bag it tomorrow.

We're now coming to the end of our Morocco visit so are making more definite plans. A few nights here then maybe a day visit to Essaouria before continuing up the coast.

Aourir

Saturday

A nice peaceful night and we took our time in the morning. It seemed that the weather had suddenly turned noticeably warmer and we were quick to get the awning up for some shade. We decided last night that we'd stay here for a few days and get caught up so the morning was taken up with a good cleanup and a session with a washing machine as well as a proper service of the van.

Later it was once again time to relax, after we'd given Jamie a proper wash. He'd accumulated so much dust that he was more brown than white, which no amount of brushing would shift so into the shower with a bottle of doggy shampoo. He didn't much like it but let us clean him up so that by the time he'd properly dried out, not long in the heat, he was once again all nice white and fluffy! We think he appreciated it................

Yesterday afternoon, as it has done for the previous ten days or so, the wind got up to be quite strong so we were watching for it but, although the breeze did increase, it didn't get out of hand. The temperatures stayed around 30 deg and even just before midnight, when Terry took Jamie out for his late night wee, it was still low twenties.

Sunday

Was a bit more washing but as it was Sunday Breakfast day things were decidedly lazy. The washing dried quickly though so that's another job out of the way, probably the last time in Morocco. We hummed and hahed about having a meal in the onsite restaurant but it wasn't cheap, the menu was a bit limited and it has to be booked and taken before 6.30 pm so we decided not to bother – we're pretty well stocked up anyway.

During the afternoon another Brit van arrived and we had a chat with Moroccan first-timers who had been following the MotorhomeFun forum thread – if you're reading this, sorry we forgot to ask your names! Nice to get good feedback though.

As I write at teatime we still haven't decided but will probably move on again tomorrow, firstly back to Agadir where we spotted a place where we might get the aircon fixed. From there we'll likely head north along the coast and cruise gently back over the next 10 days to Tangier.

It's been very hot today - ironic as whilst writing we've been listening to Radio 2 reporting heavy snow, storms, road closures etc. in the UK.

Friday 8 March – Taroudant to Aourir

Taroudant to Aourir - 67 miles

Although it was quiet overnight, the city traffic started early so we were a little disturbed but rose around our normal time. Due to a miscalculation we didn't have much breakfast but managed before our friends turned up. Our plans had gone a little awry but in the end we decided to at least go have a look at the two souks and the two squares which our Rough Guide said were worth a visit.

June and Derek went on ahead whilst we finished off then set out to see the sights, leaving Jamie in a well-ventilated and shaded van. Being all within impressive walls, the town is actually not all that big but of course has many streets and alleys leading everywhere but with the help of friendly locals, wanting “to practice their English”, we found first the Berber then the Arab souk. Both were really much like any other souk we've visited but as today was Friday, the Muslim holy day, many of the stalls were closed. We did, however find a stall selling something we had been looking for and made a good purchase, although we admit our bargaining skills aren't really any match for the Arabs!

Decorated wooden gate to Kasbah

Walls close to Kasbah

Bab Al Kasbah

Olive Press

We then found our way to Place Assarag, said to be a (much) smaller copy of the more famous Jemmaa el Fna in Marrakesh, checking out the various cafes for our friends, passing several times through the smaller Place Talmoklate and fending off a very friendly but somewhat persistent guy trying, among other things, to sell us a trip by calleche, or horse-drawn trap. Some bread for lunch then back to the van. We also kept walking past the hospital morgue.............!

Having seen all that we wanted, we made tracks for Agadir, using a new fast dual carriageway road along the generally non-descript Souss valley, heading for the large Marjane hypermarket to stock up again. The traffic around Agadir was absolutely chaotic, given that today is supposed to be a holy day, like our Sunday, but thankfully Marjane, like most UK supermarkets, didn't conform to the religious pattern and was fully open.

Once finished there we consulted with our friends and decided to have a look for an apparent campsite they had spotted just north of the city. Unfortunately there was nothing there but our campsite information showed a place a few kilometres inland which we remembered from a much earlier trip so we headed there to find an excellent site, well organised with very good facilities although not the cheapest we've used. Less than half full we found a pleasant pitch which promised good sun so set up, after being conned by the shop owner to buy a big plateful of freshly made vanilla slices - “they'll last 5 days in your fridge”. Not in our fridge they won't.................

We'll stay a few days and get caught up with things, like washing and this blog.............

Thursday 7 March – Tafraoute to Taroudant

Tafraoute to Taroudante - 116 miles

Up earlyish to a partially cloudy and quite cool morning, which was actually quite nice as we are moving on today. June and Derek left early and we planned to meet up with them later, so after servicing the van and saying our goodbyes all round we headed out.

First call in a very quiet town centre was to refuel – although we had half a tank our rule is don't let it get less unless you are sure of the next refill. Then out to the north east, climbing steadily up to the rim of the bowl Tafraoute is in and across the hills on an excellent but almost deserted road to Ighrem, stopping a short distance after for lunch. Then another good but “scenic” road across the Anti Atlas mountains, generally above 4000 ft amsl before descending sharply into the Souss valley and onto a long dead straight road to Taroudant.

We had planned, and programmed TomTom, to go to the “official” guardian parking but when we were directed to turn in through the city walls we baulked and instead set off around them, ignoring TomTom, to try and find the parking area. The walls are a 6km drive all round and, of course, we went the entire length before finding the parking area we knew of; yes about 100 metres from where we had turned the other way........... We'd set the wrong place and of course our friends were at the other one!

But anyway we parked up and after a cuppa took Jamie and went looking. We didn't find them so returned through the city and were not really impressed – neither was Jamie who kept sitting down as if to say “I've had enough” it now being very warm. We later communicated and agreed to meet up tomorrow, which apparently did not go down that well with their guardian who was saving a place for us.

Tafraoute 2

Our days took on a bit of a pattern. Not up too early as the sun didn't come over the rim until around 9.00 but then the temperature climbed quickly. We had orientated the van to take advantage of all day sunshine but had to add additional screening by deploying our windblockers so that we could enjoy the sunshine without getting burned!

Afterwards it was a mix of doing light chores and hobbies plus frequent chats with other Funsters going to and from the town. Occasionally we visited the town too for essential shopping and a few times to enjoy meals out too. We've eaten out a lot more on this trip than ever before but it's so cheap and so good it's not worth cooking ourselves.

Most days the wind freshened up at around 4.00 pm, necessitating taking in the awning, despite extra tie-downs. Several times there were Funster “beer-o-clock” get-togethers, and we hosted one on our last day at Tafraoute, inviting the first non Funster Brits we've seen in Morocco to join in. On that occasion we also met a couple of Kiwis (New Zealand) on a very extended tour of Europe and beyond – they were already 21 months into their trip with no plans to return home!

Beer-o-clock

However all good things come to an end and we started getting itchy feet, not for the want of seeing something else but just to move on. So after our beer-o-clock we packed everything away, ready for a reasonable start in the morning. When we first came to Morocco we said this was probably our last time, however we've enjoyed it so much so far that that decision may be looked at carefully!