Sunday 10 February – Kaouki Beach to Imsouane

Kaouki Beach to Imsouane - 53 miles

Although we were moving on today we still had to have Sunday Breakfast so it wasn't the fastest getaway we could have made but as we're not travelling very far it didn't really matter.

Opting to take the minor coastal road, we enjoyed a quiet pleasant drive on an excellent surface with lovely views before eventually rejoining the main N1, which for a Sunday seemed quite busy. However the small town of Smimou was frantic; it was market day which wasn't helped by some sort of incident which involved the attendance of an ambulance right in the middle with an incredible number of onlookers getting in the way – it almost resorted in further injuries despite us just creeping along. And we thought the UK had rubber-neckers!

But we eventually got clear and continued at a steady pace, the countryside becoming more arid and the main vegetation being argon trees; the road seems to be lined with argon oil and honey sellers. Eventually we took the second turn-off for Imsouane – we've been along the first...............! - and climbed through several small settlements and across the coastal hills. Just before a steep descent into the town through a road cut out of the rock was an amazing view but unfortunately we missed the stopping area due to a quartet of Italian motorcyclists intent on committing suicide trying to pass us! We'll stop on our way past tomorrow.

Camping Ocean Point is well signposted just on the edge of town along an incredibly rough track, which has obviously seen no attention since we were last here two years ago. Neither, it appears, has the site but they had room enough for us to find adjoining pitches and we settled in. Compared to our previous site, this one is a bit rough and ready but nevertheless clean and tidy. It seems to attract younger folk in old beat-up vans and some tents as the surfing seems to be a main attraction. But it has all the necessary facilities and we wouldn't find it a hardship to stay awhile.

The town itself has undergone a tremendous amount of development, not very attractive but then again typically Moroccan – modelled perhaps on the ubiquitous shipping container it is so square, then painted in bright colours. The walk down to the beach and town is a bit precarious so we didn't, but we are aware that fishing is also a major occupation.

An afternoon of hot sunshine and relaxation before an early night; we'll be quite busy tomorrow.

Kaouki Beach 2

On Friday lunchtime we walked to the village with Derek and June for lunch at one of the restaurants, choosing the pone that looked the busiest, on the premise that it is usually the best! A decent menu including a starter salad, chicken, fish and meat (unidentified!)dishes, the girls went for chicken brochettes, Terry had kefta, a sort of cross between a meatball and beefburger, whilst Derek asked for a meat tagine – all with chips and salad plus freshly squeezed orange juice. All very nice although not particularly outstanding but at Dh 325 (£26) for the four of us we thought it most reasonable. 

Thereafter it was just more lazing about in the sun which was quite hot although cooling breezes made it comfortable. Although we all said we could stay here a good deal longer after discussion we thought we'd continue south on Sunday with an overnight stop at Imsouane before travelling to Agadir on Monday. As well as shopping we also wanted to get gas organised and also try the Fiat dealerships to see if we could get a replacement mirror for Dereks motorhome.

More walks on the beach before a bit of packing up on Saturday night, ready for the off on Monday.

Kaouki Beach

Camping Kaouki Beach

We arrived here on Monday afternoon – and have fallen in love with the place. It's quiet, very clean and not expensive. It's got a deserted beach, which Jamie loves, that goes on forever and has wall-to-wall sunshine. Even the breeze is welcome!

Swimming pool

So far this week we've done a couple of loads of washing – 35dh for 5kg and they do it for you – repaired the trap on the loo where a screw had dropped out (blame the roads!) and, ermm, not a lot else! Haven't yet braved the swimming pool although we've seen several others in it. Did manage to clean off a very dirty van too.

Sidi Kaouke

The tiny settlement of Sidi Kaouke is really only the car park at the end of the road. There are half a dozen “restaurants”, a couple of “hotels” and a few surfing schools as well as horse, camel and quad bike rides. There's also a small shop we've nicknamed Tesco as it seems to have a great range of stuff you will never need to buy.................. In fairness there are a few “houses” too, probably for the owners/staff.

There is another campsite 100m along the road that is quite full but doesn't seem to be as nice inside. We're also led to believe there is a guardian parking area further along but can't confirm that. However in all honesty at 70dh per night who would want it? Oh and did I mention free wifi?

 

 

 

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We haven't yet decided when or where to move on to but are considering a new site just south of Agadir that has been checked out by other friends, with a shopping trip on the way.

Monday 4th February – Oualidia to Kaouki Beach

Oualidia to Kaouki Beach - 145 miles

 Another sunny morning but a cool wind. Moving on today so empty loo and load couple of cans of water – we intend going to a campsite so no need to fill up. A lot of vans leaving at the same time, but we've noticed this parking seems to have a high turnover despite it being one of the better ones we've found.

First leg along the coast to Safi, a fairly industrial town but TomTom took us around although it was very very busy. As we left we realised we had “lost” our friends so after waiting a short while we turned round, only of course to meet them coming the other way. Unfortunately they had had a “coming together” of mirrors with a minibus, who didn't stop, but managed to salvage enough to manage with the use of duct tape. We'll try to get a replacement later.

Sebt des Gzoula is a small town situated at the junction of a couple of major roads, including the N1 which we were following. We arrived at lunchtime, on market day and when a few long-distance buses were loading/unloading – absolute typical Moroccan chaos and great fun to watch and navigate through. It's moments like these that make our trips memorable, may try and recover a clip off the dashcam.

Shortly after we managed to buy some bread in a village and stopped for lunch. Continued on to Essaouira, the N1 being pretty good for quite long stretches although we had to watch for the occasional bad bits. Out of interest we went down to the sea front to check out the old guardian parking site but it was indeed closed with signs banning motorhome parking. Shame as it was so handy for the city and the alternatives are a good way out.

Backtracked, via an unplanned diversion (in other words took a wrong turn!), to the large Carrefour supermarket to stock up again as we'd planned to stay for a number of days at our next stop. Which was Camping Kaouki Beach at Sidi Kaouke about 15km south. A tiny seaside settlement, it's only raison d'etre seemed to be the two or three camping areas, all situated very close to the long sandy beach. We found a couple of nice roomy pitches and settled in, meeting Jon and Sue, one of the other couples we had crossed from Spain with.

Not a very big site, it has good modern facilities and is kept spotlessly clean. A lovely clean and sparkling swimming pool looked attractive in the now quite hot sunshine, despite it being quite late in the day. The price, at 70 dirhams a night for more than 3 nights, is very good. Electricity also available at 20 dirhams pn but with the fridge broken it was not much use to us so we opted out – you can buy a lot of gas for 20 dirhams.

We intend to stay here at least until the weekend as the weather forecast is good for at least that far.

Oualidia - 1st to 3rd February

A little more rain overnight but by mid-morning the skies had cleared, there was a gentle breeze and it became decidedly warm – at last we've found what we came looking for. Got the routine out of the way and walked up into the town proper as we had been told there was a big market on. Sure enough at the north end of town a huge array of stalls were spread about selling just about everything from beds to fruit and veg, bread, what we would call jumble, in fact anything that someone might possibly want to buy. Not, however the best we have seen in Morocco but no doubt, by it's popularity, an important event locally.

As there was nothing we needed, save bread and milk if we found them, we wandered back along the main street past the myriad of small shops and cafes, purchasing a couple of “hub caps” (our term for the round stottie type loaves) but being told fresh milk was not available. Stopped off at a cafe and sat in the sun with a coffee for a while until Jamie started playing up, so returned to the van for lunch.

Lagoon at Oualidia

The rest of the day was spent lazing in the sun after sorting out a burst Coke bottle in the rear box. We discussed moving on but later, as the weather forecast was good and anyway it was Sunday tomorrow, we'd stay another night. We do like Oualidia and it has everything we need at a very reasonable price.

Sunday was cooler with a freshening breeze although the sun was as bright as could be and the solar panel had the batteries recharged by lunchtime. We didn't bother with lunch though and instead took Jamie in search of a beach to play on. However it was far too windy to linger and the beach was not really suitable to let him off the lead, but he did at least get a good walk.

Lagoon at Oualidia, the other way!

The photo above was taken almost exactly in the opposite direction to the first, again showing the much calmer waters of the lagoon. It also shows a Royal Palace on the waters edge, now closed and empty, which was built for Mohammed V, the present King's grandfather.

Back to the van for afternoon cuppa and a bit more chat we decided we would definitely move on tomorrow and see if we could visit Essaouira, possibly our favourite place in Morocco. Unfortunately we've been told the guardian parking has been closed, probably due to the proximity of a new apartment complex, and the nearest campsite is an undesirable dump – others have used a stronger description! But we may be able to park closeby for a couple of hours visit.

We managed to speak to Mum via Skype to learn it is very cold at home and a message from a neighbour reports 2 inches of snow. We're very sorry folks...................!!!

Friday 1st February – Dar Bouazza to Oualidia

Dar Bouazza to Oualidia - 102 miles

An overcast morning, we completed all our chores then bid au revoir to the friendly guardian, paying him 190 dirhams for the two nights which we felt was not unreasonable – we'd happily recommend the site, despite it's tired appearance, as it is handy for visiting Casablanca if you so wish – a bit far to cycle but there are local buses and taxis. However the best means of visiting the city is by minibus provided by, no doubt, a relative of the guardian.

Both needing fuel we called in to the first station, Zizi, paying around 75p a litre, before heading to the N1 having eschewed the idea of using the motorway. Of course today TomTom wasn't interested in going that way so we wandered around a bit on minor roads before the old fashioned map sorted us out. As it turned out we later felt we should have taken the motorway.

A much more interesting route, unfortunately the weather turned on us and it started to rain, turning much of the road into a mudbath, even the surfaced bits! Typical of Morocco some roads were quite good, even some recently resurfaced, but others were very poor prompting a remark that we ought to go faster, at least we'll only hit half the bumps...................!

TomTom eventually cooperated and took us around El Jedida, a rather nice city we have visited before, then putting us on the coastal road giving us a good view of the waves pounding the beaches. Eventually we arrived at the pretty town of Oualidia and found our way to the guardian parking, which has now been made official and we estimate could take well over 100 units, although it was actually only half full. We later found out that water was available by request from a hosepipe and the “public toilets” had been opened for disposing of WC waste – all for a measly 30 dirhams (£2.50) a night, excellent indeed!

Unfortunately the weather then turned quite nasty with very heavy rain and strong winds which kept us inside. It was not enough, however, to wash off the disgusting mess that now covered the vans and although Derek made an effort to clean their vehicle Terry settled for the windows, not wanting to damage the paintwork until there was a sufficient water supply to wash off the grit first.

It did dry up later and the forecast showed it clearing overnight and then returning to wall-to-wall sunshine for at least the next week.

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Just a comment about the maps; they are taken from the netbook using the last version of Microsoft Autoroute, which unfortunately doesn't include roads in Morocco. We'll try to highlight places of particular interest along the way.

Up to now we've taken few photographs as we've been to all the places so far before. We'll add anything interesting later.

Wednesday 30th January – Assila to Dar Bouazza

Assila to Dar Bouazza - 214 miles

As at this point we hadn't yet properly sussed the time problem we were a little confused at getting up time! No matter as we were in no rush although we'd missed the departure of two of our “party” who we'll probably see later anyway, and the third left shortly after, all in different directions.

Once we'd got ourselves sorted out D & J set off to get some fuel and we followed shortly after; we actually didn't catch them up until almost at our destination but as we had already decided our next stopover we weren't concerned. We took the toll motorway as past experience showed us little we wanted to see again and it was quite a way for a days journey in Morocco! It is not expensive, our total tolls for the day were 183 dirhams (£15) for 200 miles.

The weather was still a little unsettled, but felt distinctly warmer, tempered by a fresh breeze. We made good time and paused at Kenitra service area as we thought our friends could have stopped there; they hadn't so we had lunch before continuing to Rabat. On our earlier trips the motorway hadn't been completed and this part of the transit was a bit of a nightmare with big roadworks and consequent heavy traffic. All okay now though and we breezed past on the motorway across a a striking new bridge heading for Casablanca, where we nearly took a wrong turn into the centre – been there, done that, never again! - instead of following our by now fully operational TomTom.

Leaving the motorway we came across our friends going the other way, having become unsure of the correct route, but they tagged onto us and we negotiated a few minor “roads” and arrived at Camping Oasis International at Dar Bouazza, a place we've stayed a couple of times before. Although it was quite busy around the area, due to a weekly souk held just along the road, the site was quiet and welcoming. We pitched up and connected the electric, which once it was switched on actually worked reliably, before relaxing with a cuppa.

The last time we stayed here they had made some improvements and we had hopes that there would be more. Alas it appeared that, probably due to it's location, it was never a busy place and there was little money for anything major. Nevertheless it was clean and tidy and at least the somewhat dated facilities were washed out (read hosed out) regularly and useable. The site dog, called Wiffy, made friends with Jamie but because he was free-roaming we didn't think we should leave ours outside unattended despite having had all the necessary treatments.

It's been a long tiring day so we have decided to stay a couple of nights to recharge ourselves after the rush-around of the last few days.

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Thursday was spent taking it easy. After a lazy morning we thought we'd take a walk to see if we could find a beach for Jamie, having never explored the area before. In all honesty it's not a particularly attractive place as there is much building work going on. However we wandered through a recently completed apartment complex, each “court” having it's own security guard, towards what looked like a sea wall, chasing off a few wild dogs who objected to Jamie being on “their territory”.

“Security guards” gives the impression that it is not a particularly nice or safe place to be, but that is far from the truth. In reality they are more like the concierge you find in gated estates in other parts of the world and are more likely to be there as a deterrent to undesirables. One actually came out of his box and chased the wild dogs off when he saw them bothering us.

Alas, the “sea wall” turned out to be another boundary and the sea was still some way away so we strolled back to the campsite for a cuppa and relax, discussing where we were heading to next.